The heart of Tuscany celebrates Easter with a passion unrivaled in the United States.  Florence has held the same festival for well over 300 years, beginning in 1679.  The biggest spectacle is the arrival and “explosion of the cart.”  The cart, the same that has been used since 1679 is drawn through the streets of Florence by garland wearing oxen and finished at the front of the Duomo.  Easter Mass is held in the Duomo of course, and if you do not arrive EARLY, like with that rooster on the Chianti Classico bottles early, do not count on getting in to the Mass.

The actual explosion of the cart is representative of the rekindling of the hearth fires of the Florentines, a tradition dating from just after the crusades.  Now the immediate explosion of the cart and launching of the fireworks signifies an abundant harvest, and if the cart does not immediately ignite after the dove is launched from the Duomo a huge, disappointed collective groan will rise from the crowd.  After the cart has launched all its fireworks a procession in full Medieval costume begins.  The costumes are stunning, colorful and the particpants all are happy and boisterous, this is definitely NOT a somber Protestant Easter celebration.

The city is overflowing with life and bodies on Easter Sunday, so plan ahead.  Keeping some snacks and bottle of water with you will help stave off the hunger that will gnaw at you while you are waiting to get into a restaurant to enjoy the lamb that is traditionally served for Easter dinner here.  And hopefully you have picked up some of the beautiful chocolate eggs that the local artisans create, even custom designed with gifts placed inside by the buyer.  Makes it hard to appreciate a pink hard-boiled egg after you receive one of these works of art.

Eat well Sunday night.  Eat very well Sunday night.  The entire country except for some public transportation and a limited number of restaurants, and of course the hotels, shuts down for “lunedi Pasqua” or the Monday after Easter.  You will hopefully be lazily wallowing in your food coma and looking through a collection of photos on your camera that will give you great stories for your friends.